Fairbanks Morse Z Engine Manual
Feel free to give our friendly staff a call about available parts or manuals for your Fairbanks-Morse if. Engine Service Manual. Fairbanks Morse Type Z.
List Price BS-MDH Briggs & Stratton Model-Date Handbook. Covers engines manufactured from 1923 to 1984. 12 pgs. $ 8.95 BS-SM Briggs & Stratton Service & Repair Instructions; Covers general service information of these engines including Ignition, Carburetion, Governing Control & Carburetor Linkage, Governors, Compression, Starters & Charging Systems, Lubrication, Pistons, Rings, Rods, Crankshafts & Cam Gears, Cylinders & Bearing, Synchro-Balance, Tools & General Theories of Operation. Originally published in 1975, 198 pgs. $32.95 CE-OM Cushman Engine Instruction manual for 4 HP light weight engine manufactured in the 1910-1920 era. $16.95 CCH-Cat Cushman Cub and Husky catalog.
Covers Husky 3/4- 1.5 HP engines, Cub 2-4 HP engines, model C 4HP, Cushman C-34 5-6 HP, Vertical & E35 10-12HP Twin cylinder, centrifugal pumpers & pump jacks. Includes specifications and illustrations. $11.95 CCub-OM Cushman Cub Instruction and repair manual for the 'Cub' model R engine with Wico magneto. 1929, 10 pgs. $ 8.95 FCE-Cat Farm Cushman Engine sales catalog from 1914.
Shows full line of products and uses for Cushman engines and reasons for their superiority. Many nice pictures included within. $16.95 DEL-OM DeLaval, The New World's standard series of cream separators instruction manual. $14.95 FM-CO176A Fairbanks Morse Ins. Jack of all trades and 2, 3, 4, 6, 9 and 12 HP vertical engines. Instructions for setting up and operating. $14.95 FM-H245G Fairbanks Morse Bulletin H245G.
The Fairbanks-Morse 'Z' Engine is the logical engine for you to use because it combines every practical advantage to do your work continuously, conveniently. Feel free to give our friendly staff a call about available parts or manuals for your Fairbanks-Morse if. Engine Service Manual. Fairbanks Morse Type Z.
For 'Z' engines 2, 3 and 6 HP. 1920's 16 pgs. $11.95 FM-2407 Fairbanks Morse #2407.
Instructions for setting up and operating 1.5 HP type Z hit and miss gas engines. $ 8.95 FM-2407D Fairbanks Morse #2407D.
Instructions for setting up and operating 1.5 HP headless gasoline engines. $11.95 FM-2417D Fairbanks Morse #2417D. Instructions for setting up and operating 3 & 6 HP 'Z', throttling governor oil engines. $11.95 FM-2481 Fairbanks Morse #2481. Instruction No. 2481-Starting diagram for 3 & 6 HP type Z throttling engines. The chart that was provided when the engine was purchased new.
For Sumter magneto equipped engines. $ 8.95 FM-2548A Fairbanks Morse #2548A.
Instructions for setting up and operating 1.5, 3 & 6 HP 'Z' throttling governor engines and model ZA with Bosch AB magneto. $11.95 FM-2548B Fairbanks Morse #2548B. Instructions for setting up and operating 1.5, 3, & 6 HP model Z throttling governor engines, with model ZA Bosch equipped. $14.95 FM-2548D Fairbanks Morse #2548D. Instructions for setting up and operating 2, 3, & 6 HP model Z engines with Fairbanks Morse type R Magneto. 1935 26 pgs $14.95 FM-2736 Fairbanks Morse #2736. Instructions for installing and operating 1.5 HP Z style D engines with R magneto.
$ 8.95 FM-2737A Fairbanks Morse #2737A. Instructions for installing and operating 3 HP model Z,style C engines. $ 8.95 Engines For IHC Stationary Engine Decals, click IH-Cat-1914 IHC Farm Engines-1914 Catalog.
Covers the entire IHC farm engine line including the Famous, Titan, Tom Thumb, etc. Also includes accessories. $19.95 IH-Cat-1912 IHC Gasoline Engines. 1912 catalog covering engines (Famous, Victor, Giant, etc.) to 50HP, tractors, saw unit, spraying outfits, pumps, magnetos and more. $19.95 IH-Cat-1910 IHC Gasoline Engines.
1910 catalog covering stationary engines (1-50HP), special outfits for sawing, spraying and pumping. $19.95 IH-Cat-1913 IHC Oil and Gas Engines.
1913 catalog covering stationary engines, sawing outfits, spraying outfits, pump jacks and information on construction of engine. $19.95 IH-Cat-1896 McCormick Harvesting Machines.
1896 catalog 'Triumphant throughout all Nations.' Features horse drawn equipment. $16.95 IH-DB-GE IH McCormick Deering Gasoline Engines, 1905-1948, Data Book; Includes Serial Numbers, Data, Accessories, History, Compiled by Alan King, 54 pgs with color cover. Limited quantities $19.95 IH-GEHB Gas Engine Handbook.
A booklet given by IHC dealers in the 1920's that covers internal combustion theory and engine overhaul. The engine being overhauled is a McCormick Deering Model M, but the hits and practices should apply to all models. 64 pgs $19.95 IH-OM-1908 IHC Engine Operator's Manual, from 1908. Covers installation & adjustment, troubleshooting etc, For IHC Famous, air cooled, vertical and horizontal, stationary and portable engines.
Also, Famous spraying outfits and 2 HP pumping engines, & pump jacks. $19.95 IH-OM-A384B IHC Engine Operators Manual. Reprint of the 1912 manual from the International Harvester Co. Includes useful tips that apply to all hit and miss engines. Feature Famous and Victor engines. Includes remedies for common engine troubles, maintenance, useful information and wiring diagrams. $19.95 IH-OM-A900F IHC Mogul Engine Operators Manual.
Reprint of 1916 operators manual for Mogul engines. Includes parts list and trouble shooting guide. $19.95 INT646 INT646.
IHC horizontal tank cooled gas and gasoline engines (stationary, portable and Famous). Includes price list and illustrations of repair parts. 1912, 38 pgs. $16.95 INT683.5 INT683.5.
Setting up and operating IHC Tom Thumb 1 HP air-cooled engine. Includes price list and illustrations of repair parts. $ 8.95 INT750 INT750.
Setting up and operating directions for IHC 2.5 HP horizontal hopper cooled gas engines (stationary and Famous). Includes price list and illustrations of repair parts. 1913, 12 pgs. $ 8.95 INT753 INT753. Directions for setting up and operating IHC vertical tank cooled gasoline engines, with parts list.
1913, 26 pgs. $14.95 INT834.5 INT834.5. Directions for setting up and operating the IHC Mogul Side Shaft, Horizontal, and Stationary Tank Cooled Kerosene engines with 4, 6, 12 & 15 HP. Includes price list and illustrations of repair parts.
$16.95 INT876 INT876. Directions for setting up and operating the IHC Titan Famous 1 HP hopper cooled engine with price list and illustrations or repair parts. $ 8.95 INT917 INT917. Directions for setting up and operating Titan horizontal hopper cooled throttling governor kerosene engines. With price list and illustrations of repair parts. 1915, 30 pgs $14.95 INT921A INT921A.
Directions for setting up and operating the Mogul side shaft, horizontal tank cooled Kerosene engine. 4-15HP, operating and setting up instructions. Includes list and illustrations of repair parts. $19.95 INT2115 INT2115. Directions for setting up and operating the Mogul horizontal hopper cooled kerosene engines from 1 to 2.5 HP, both high and low tension magnetos.
1917, 24 pgs. $14.95 INT2118 INT2118.
IHC Mogul Jr. Instructions and parts manual. 1917, 12 pgs. $ 8.95 INT2425A INT2425A. Instructions for setting up and operating the IHC vertical tank cooled gasoline engine, with repair parts list.
$14.95 INT2462 INT2462. Model M engine with low tension magneto. Instructions and parts manual for 1.5, 3 and 6HP engines with overstrike igniter. 1919, 40 pgs. $16.95 INT2619A INT2619A. Instructions for operating 1.5, 3 & 6 HP engines with magneto. Contains repair parts list as well.
1929, 40 pgs. $16.95 INT2866 INT2866-Low Tension Magnetos. Instructions, service and parts manual with timing instructions. Covers models A, B, L, M, R, OL and U low tension magnetos. 1923, 16 pgs. $11.95 MCD923 MCD923. IHC model M engine, 1.5, 3 & 6 HP with Wico EK, low tension magneto.
Operating instructions and owners manual. 28 pgs $16.95 MCD3062 MCD3062. McCormick Deering 1.5 HP Model M engine with Wico EK magneto.
1931, 38 pgs. $16.95 MCD3640 MCD3640. 1.5, 2.5, 3 & 5 HP gasoline engine type LA equipped with Wico type H magneto. Instructions for car and operating with list of repair parts. $14.95 MCD3727 MCD3727.
1.5, 2.5, 3 & 5 HP gasoline engine, Type LA, hopper cooled. Operation, maintenance and part manual. 1935, 20 pgs. $003 IHC LB Engines. 1.5, 2.5, 3 & 5 HP engines hopper cooled. Operation, maintenance and parts manual. 1947, 52 pgs.
$014 IHC LB 3-5HP Engines. Radiator cooled, operations, maintenance and parts manual. 1945, 16 pgs. $11.95 EC-1A McCormick Deering Engine Parts Catalog.
Covers Type M 1.5, 3, 6 and 10 HP, Type L 1.5 and Type LA 1.5, 2.5, 3 and 5HP. $36.95 IHC-9 Catalog No. Price list of repair parts for IHC Titan, Victor and Famous gas, gasoline and kerosene engines and attachments. From IHC of Canada. $39.95 Engines JD-OM-E John Deere Type E Gas Engine.
Operating Instructions and Parts List for 1 1/2, 3 & 6 HP Engines $11.95 JD-SB John Deere Gasoline Engines, Color Sales Brochure. Reprint for the 1/2, 3, & 6 HP Engines. 8 pgs $10.95 JD-39R John Deere Repair Catalog No. Parts list for 1.5, 3 &6 HP stationary engines. $14.95 JD-4T John Deere Repair Catalog No. Parts list for models E, EK, and EP stationary engines in all sizes.
Effective Jan. 1945, 32pgs $16.95 JD-SM John Deere Service. Covering General Purpose and Model D tractors as well as Type E stationary engines.
Very good detail, 80 pgs. $19.95 JD-SM-Mag John Deere Magneto Instructions. Instruction for servicing magneto and igniter on John Deere Engines. $ 8.95 MT-SNDB Maytag serial number and data book. Provides production dates, paint colors, etc. For engines produced between 1911 and 1952.
6 pgs $ 8.95 MT-SM-MM Maytag Multi-Motor Servicing. Service bulletin and repair lists.
Covers all horizontal single cylinder and twin cylinder motors (except Model 82). $14.95 MT-SM-1 Maytag service manual. Covers Maytag model 82, 72D, and 72DA Multi-Motors with Wico magneto Model FW-1718. 18 pgs $11.95 MT-SM-2 Maytag service manual.
Covers Model 82, 92, and twin cylinder Multi-Motors. Includes servicing Wico magneto model FW-1718. 28 pgs $14.95 MT-Cat-25 Maytag General Catalog No. Published in 1918. Includes the entire Maytag line.
$19.95 OT-SM-LS Ottawa Log Saws. Operations, parts, and service manual covering stationary engines and saw rigs. 32 pgs. $16.95 VFT-OM Vaughan Flex-Tred Tractor, made in Portland Oregon. Covers Care and Operation of Models W and WS, Walk Behind Tractors; includes Parts List, 14 pgs.
$11.95 VDS-OM Vaughan Drag Saw Machines. Directions for operating with parts list and assembly information. Made by the Harsch Machine Works. $ 8.95 WD-OM-DS Wade One Man Drag Saw. Manufactured by the R.M. Instruction book with repair past price list. Covers all models.
10 Hp Fairbanks Morse Z Engine
$ 8.95 INT2866 IHC Low Tension Magnetos. Instructions, service and parts manual with timing instructions. Cover models A, B, L, M, R, OL and U low tension magnetos. 1932, 16 pgs.
$11.95 JD-SM-Mag John Deere Magneto Instructions. For servicing the magneto and ignition on John Deere Engines. $ 8.95 WC-OM-EK Wico Type EK Magneto Instruction. Complete instruction and parts list for care and operation.
$ 8.95 WC-SM-EK Wico Type EK Magneto Service. Service information for EK magneto.
Fairbanks Morse Kerosene Engines Harry's OLD ENGINE #3 Fairbanks Morse and Company 1918 Before: After: Fairbanks Morse 3 H.P. 'Z' Kerosene Engine Distinctive Features of the 'Z' Throttling Governor Kerosene Engines (Bulletin H 198 GC) 3 and 6 H. Engines:. 1. Throttling Governor.
2. Built-in Oscillating Magneto. 3. Pump Fuel Feed. 4. Speed Regulator. 5.
Removable Bushings in Bearings. 6. Close Speed Regulation. 7. Igniter fitted by ground and tapered joint No effort is spared in making these 'Z' Engines of the very highest quality in every detail. All parts are precisely made and fitted and standardized for interchangeability. The cylinder and crank case being cast together distributes the weight where needed for strength, giving lightness as well.
The finely ground piston and piston rings give exceptional compression. The water cooled cylinder and valves eliminate heat strains and keep the valves tight. The effective lubrication, accessibility and reliability are found in every 'Z' Engine.
Use Cheapest Fuel An engine of 1-1/2 H.P., 3-1/2 H.P. Or 6 H.P., to give power at lowest cost, should run on kerosene distillate, coal oil, tops and other cheaper fuels as well as gasoline. These lower grade fuels can only be used economically, however, when the engine is designed and built especially for them, and it was with this principle in view that the 'Z' engines were designed. Throttling Governor A successful kerosene engine must maintain uniform speed at any load through control of the fuel. The throttling governor on the 'Z' engines acts directly on a balanced valve, which regulates the amount of fuel and air passing through the inlet valve into the cylinder. It thus maintains an accurately proportioned mixture for the charge, as well as a uniform cylinder temperature, giving greatest economy and power and a definite uniform speed regardless of the load, even in cold weather. The Logical Engines for Your Service Whatever the work; pumping, sawing, grinding, or any of the many duties to be performed, you want it done at lowest cost.
As a buyer of farm equipment you know that this 'cost' does not stop with first cost. It includes the money you spend to keep the engine running, for fuel, labor, repairs and upkeep. What you get for this money in work done determines whether or not you are obtaining your power at lowest cost. Buy an engine that will give you all the power you need and more if necessary, one that successfully uses the most economical fuels, requires the least attention, starts quickly and easily at any time, even in cold weather and will do all this faithfully for many years. The Fairbanks-Morse 'Z' Engine is the logical engine for you to use because it combines every practical advantage to do your work continuously, conveniently, economically, cleanly and quietly. All sizes: l-1/2, 3 and 6 H. Successfully use KER0SENE also Distillate, Coal Oil, Tops, Gasoline and other Cheaper Fuels You can grind feed, pump water, shell corn, run your separator, churn, washing machine and many other things about the farm with a Fairbanks-Morse 'Z' Engine.
The rating is conservative in actual service, the engine readily develops more. Think of this when you buy! Your needs may at any time demand more power.
The 'Z' gives you this extra help when you want it-offers you this reserve force to complete your work, perhaps saving you the difference in the cost of a larger engine. Efficiency features: Consider these: throttling governor, built-in oscillating magneto, speed regulator, removable bushings in bearings, close speed regulation, removable water cooled cylinder heads and more. Examine the pictures of the engines, see the graceful, powerful lines, the strength well placed where needed. Imagine this clean-cut, able and reliable worker 'on the job' on your farm. Every feature of these wonderful engines does its part to develop maximum power from least fuel.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR SETTING UP AND OPERATING FAIRBANKS MORSE 3 AND 6 H.P. TYPE Z OIL ENGINES This information from Fairbanks Morse 2417D is provided as a public service subject to our web site. Remove engine from crate, being very careful to avoid damage. In the bundle of parts is the cylinder oil cup which is to be placed on the cylinder oil pipe (on the Closed Jacket Engines a nipple is included which is to be screwed into the cylinder). Put the pulley on the side opposite the governor using the bolts sent. With the Steel Pulleys, small clips are furnished to catch inside the rim so the bolts will hold fast.
When it is desired to place the pulley on the governor side, it will be necessary to reverse the small dog in the starter crank so as to use it on the other side. If engine is to be located on a foundation, follow the regular foundation plans, leaving two or three feet of room all round. If the engine is installed in a building the silencer may be removed and the exhaust pipe attached and carried outside. It should be short and with few bends. The silencer must be attached to end of the pipe. Water may collect in long exhaust pipes so a small hole or other drain should be provided at the lowest place.
When the pipe is long (20 feet) or has several elbows, the pipe should be increased in size and better results will be observed if a cast iron exhaust pot is installed near the engine. These engines can use as fuel, Gasoline, Motor Spirits, Kerosene and some varieties of Power Distillate. Read the tags on the engine but do not remove them until you are familiar with its operation. WHAT TO DO BEFORE STARTING 6.
Fill fuel tank (49) with the fuel to be used regularly, using the tube and funnel. Put water in hopper, but only enough at first to cover top of cylinder. In cold weather hot water will make the engine easier to start.
Tighten cylinder head nuts. Fill oil cup (527) with good gas engine Oil and adjust oiler to feed 12 drops per minute on the 3 H.
Or 20 drops per minute on the 6 H. Gradually cut down the amount of oil as the engine be-comes worn in. Fill the four grease cups. Two are on the main bearings (505), a small one is on the cam gear (506) hub.
These should be screwed down one or two turns until grease is forced freely into the bearings. The fourth one is on the crank pin (509) bearing. With a hand oil can go over the engine and oil the governor and all other places where there are oil holes, and where one part moves against another.
TO START ENGINE 10. Drain the oil fuel from the fuel reservoir by unscrewing the over-flow valve (105) one or two turns, until the oil fuel runs back to tank. Open cover to see when it is drained.
When empty close the overflow valve tightly. Fill the reservoir with gasoline for starting and throw the fuel pump out action by pushing the pump lever (66) back away from its driving screw on the exhaust lever rod, by means of the lock out lever (75). This is located on the cylinder head side of the fuel reservoir.
Open fuel throttle valve (76A) about one turn. Set the 'Early and Late' pin with the mark 'L' up indicating late ignition. NOTICE: Starting cranks are a recipe for disaster. It is preferred to start these engines by manually turning the flywheels. How appropriate that what follows is step number 13.
Holding the suction or upper valve open with the left hand, with the starter crank spin the engine. After getting the engine in motion, release the suction valve and half close the air inlet opening in bottom of reservoir with fingers of left hand for one revolution only, and then remove fingers while still continuing to crank. If held longer too much fuel will be drawn in. The mixture will not ignite if there is too much fuel in it, and the fuel must be forced out by cranking.
AFTER ENGINE IS STARTED 14. After the engine takes its first impulse remove the starter crank. The igniter should be set on running position with the mark E up - this is the point of early ignition. The throttle should be again adjusted to give as little fuel as the engine will run on. After the engine is running nicely adjust the throttle valve. The position at final test on distillate was with the mark straight down, but it should be adjusted to give as little fuel as the engine will run on. The position varies with the fuel and the temperature.
The engine will usually run on oil fuel after using one reservoir full of gasoline. When the engine is warm enough to run on oil fuel the fuel pump should be thrown into action by throwing out the lock-out lever. The water throttle valve on the cylinder head should not be opened except to quiet hard explosions which may be noticed when engine is on heavy continuous load, and only enough to serve the purpose. This valve must be closed a few minutes before stopping engine so that the interior of the cylinder will be dry. The water spray valve is on 6 H. Engines only.
Fairbanks Morse Z Engine Serial Numbers
Fill water hopper two-thirds full and replenish this water as it evaporates. It is expected to boil away. TO STOP ENGINE 18. To stop engine, first close water throttle valve, then close throttle To Stop. Then close cylinder oiler (527), and in freezing weather, drain out the water. DESCRIPTION OF ENGINE PARTS AND ADJUSTMENTS 19. The cam gear (28) is marked with two center punch marks on face of tooth.
The pinion (29) on the crank shaft has one tooth with two center punch marks. This tooth should come between the two marked ones on the large gear. If the engine is taken apart and the marks on the gears cannot be found, or if the gears are replaced, the engine should be timed as follows. Place the crank (25A) in a vertical position and pointing up.
Then set the cam gear with the nose of the cam straight up. Next see that there is about 1/16' clearance between the end of the exhaust rod and the adjusting screw in the valve rocker arm. Such a setting should bring the valve timing very nearly as described in paragraph 20 below. The cam should begin to open the exhaust valve 30 degrees to 35 degrees before outer dead center. The cam should close the exhaust valve when the crank is about 5 degrees above the inner dead center. The valve can be turned with the fingers the instant it is lifted from its seat. While operating engine the hopper should not be filled more than three-fourths full of water, otherwise water will splash out more or less when it boils.
The water should never be allowed to fall as low as the top of the cylinder wall, as the cylinder will then get too hot. It is to be expected that the water will boil under heavy load and the engine will work properly when the water is boiling. Put in more water as it evaporates. The engine jacket is liable to be broken by freezing if water is left in during cold weather unless non-freezing solution is used. A non-freezing mixture of calcium chloride and water may be used in the jacket. Three pounds of calcium chloride to each gallon of water will not freeze solid at zero Fahrenheit.
It is advisable, however, to drain the jacket in freezing weather when the engine is not is use. Each engine is regularly equipped with a cast iron sub-base containing a galvanized steel fuel tank (104) which is sent out piped up complete. The filler opening in the tank is on the side of engine opposite governor.
In filling, use the tin funnel and filler tube supplied with the engine. Replace cap after filling to prevent water and foreign matter entering and keep small vent hole in cap open. Water will separate from the oil fuel and remain at the bottom, so the tank should be drained occasionally to remove the water. The suction valve is an ordinary check valve, automatic in its action and has a lift of about 3/8 of an inch.
The lift is limited by means of a spring on the valve stem. This valve is also fitted with a friction spring causing a friction on the suction valve spring collar thus retarding the rapid motion of the valve and preventing noise. Oil the friction spring. The exhaust valve like the suction valve, lies in a horizontal position with the stem extending through a guide in the cylinder head. A spring held under compression by a washer and pin on both the suction and exhaust valves holds these valves to their seats.
If valve stem shows tendency to stick, squirt a little kerosene on the stem and work it back and forth. Then oil with lubricating oil.
Should the engine at any time on starting turn too easily or have lost its compression, it is evident that a leak is taking place, and the suction valve as well as exhaust valve should be examined; they may not seat properly. If they do seat properly examine the piston. If it is necessary to reseat the suction or exhaust valve the cylinder head must be removed and the valve ground with fine abrasive, such as ground glass or emery and oil. Revolve valve on its seat in alternate directions, lifting it from its seat frequently to distribute the abrasive.
Carefully clean both valve and seat with gasoline before replacing. Asbestos gaskets hold better if covered with linseed or lubricating oil when applied.
After putting on new gasket the nuts should be tightened again when engine is hot. The governor located on the side of the engine base driven from the cam gear, controls the movement of the butterfly valve located in the suction passage in the cylinder head.
The governor is fitted with a friction spring, the purpose of which is to steady the governor action. The force of the spring can be easily adjusted by small screw.
If there is too much tension the governor will be slow to respond to change in load. If not enough tension, the engine will race. If it is necessary for any reason to reset the butterfly crank arm it will be well to remove the reservoir first so that the butterfly can be seen. Take cotter pin out of butterfly crank end of governor rod, remove end of governor rod from crank. Pull one governor weight out as far as it will go and then put a wedge under it to hold it in that position. Slightly loosen clamp screw of crank. Close butterfly with finger and set crank so that governor rod lacks 1/16 inch from dropping in hole of crank.
Remove wedge from under governor weight. Tighten clamp screw of crank and reassemble parts removed. If the above instructions are followed the engine can, under no condition, run away. The governor normally holds the engine at its rated speed, but each engine is provided with a speed regulator which decreases the speed by screwing the knurled head screw in. REMOVING FUEL PIPING 33.
If it should be necessary to remove fuel piping, be careful in swinging reservoir and piping out for removal or in replacing same be careful not to bend the fuel nozzle on the reservoir. The fuel nozzle should be straight. The engine would not run properly if the relative position of this nozzle with the governing butterfly valve were changed. CLEANING PISTON AND RINGS 34. After some months of use the piston may be removed to clean the rings. To do this take off oil shield and unbolt crank bearings.
Turn crank to extreme out position. The piston may now be withdrawn.
Replace piston in its original position, and all parts in the reverse order from which they were removed. The piston may be cleaned with kerosene or a hot solution of lye and water, the rings loosened and the grooves cleaned. Oil piston well before replacing. In replacing piston turn it bottom side up so that the stop pins can be seen, otherwise the rings may be broken. Be sure to turn it right side up before connecting up the connecting rod otherwise the pin will get no oil.
The rings can be removed from piston by taking three strips of tin about one-half inch wide and six inches long; slip one piece of tin under the middle of the ring and over the ring groove, then with the help of a screw driver the other strips can be slipped under the ends and the rings in turn slipped off the piston.