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That's 3,680 watts, more than most toasters. I assume that you feed it AC full-wave rectified to DC (plus ripple). Yes,200 volts DC full wave ( four diodes). How many turns? I can not say exactly because I qwound it on a lathe without a counter. Wehn useing the standard formula I came on 1700 Wdg for each coil.
I don't understand the part about the pole pieces.Most magnetizers use two coils each wound around a piece of Iron standing side by side.To close the magnetic circle it is common to use two poleshoes made of iron. These poleshoes steal a lot of magnetic force. I'm not sure I understand why you're worried about trying to make the coils very high efficiency. Are you trying to save a few pennies on your electric bill? I would think that almost any old chunk of steel or cast iron would work fine for this. If you're designing transformers or motors that run all day, then yes, you'd use cores made of high magnetic permeability irons to reduce power consumption and heating.
How many minutes per month of magnetizing do you plan to do?According with my short experience concerning magnetizers, high magnetic permeability permits it to magnetize every magnets in different sizes and materials and to re-magnetize them, changing also magnetization axis. With common steel core, magnetizer dont works propely; due to my poor english isn't easy to explain reasons clearly, but I made it using FE 360 and then I modified it with pure iron core. I noticed big differences between 2 versions. This is my experience about this issue, everybody can build his magnetizer as he prefers!
TGD, I found this PDF File on the AKSTEEL website: it seems to indicate we should use M-43 or M-44 (solenoid core). Does someone actually sell this stuff in short bars and rods at any price? I find that Speedymetals sells cast iron rods and bars.about $11/foot for 1.5' rodCast iron is terrible magnetically, and expensive to boot. Use ordinary mild steel, alloy 1018.
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Silicon steel is intended for AC use, such as in transformers, and is not required for a magnetizer. Although it will work. Dave, ARMCO steel have 0.003% of carbonium. It's the best for magnetizers, but is a industrial supply and it's very hard to find. An other way in order to reduce carbonium and boost the magnetic permeability is to use FE 360 and submit it in a vacuumed oven to reduce carbonium%.
Forget to made a pure iron, but it's ok for a magnetizer. Here in Italy I did it, no way to find ARMCO steel in small quantities. Yes, I've my own project according with my friend Antonio Chiarelli of Magic Coil, suitable also for american purposes; you have just to change rectifier, nothing more.
It's similar to the Gingerly, and it works both with alnico and ceramic rods and bars. Alnico is easier to magnetize respect ceramic. Just to give you an idea why use low carbonium iron, try to make a pickup using polepiece in MUMetal or soft iron and then change it with common steel; signal decrease a lot. A good magnetizer made by soft iron boosts and transfers to the magnetic pieces whole electro magnetic flux generated;, more% of carbonium you have inside the core, less electro magnetic power you' ll transfer to the magnet. Guys, I've been following this closely with huge interest. I get it that there is some versions of steel that is better than others.
In the end I think me personally will need more or less what’s available, as my options are somewhat limited. However I still miss a few details that I cannot wrap my head around and I would be very happy if someone would like to share that info: - How many turns of wire for the magnetizing spools (or what DC resistance with 0.85mm wire)? - Regarding the rectifier (mostly aimed towards Electricdaveyboy as we use the same electrical system): Do you simply use a simple diode bridge directly on the main power?
Any capacitors to get a more even DC voltage? And you say that you run it directly on the 230VAC, 16A outlet, but what is the consumption? Not 16A I believe That would make the 0.85mm cable quite hot, wouldn’t it? Any input would be highly appreciated.
Hello Piero, it is a hotrolled steel had it here in my garage. Waiting for the poleshoe and groundplate being made. My mate is looking for a low carbone steel for poleshoes and bottomplate but if not I will use a high DC current in the coils to press enough magnetic force trough the iron to get the result I am happy with,hehe. Du you use your coils in series or parallel? Cheers db Dave, I tried already to encrease DC current wounding additional layers on the bobbins but cores made by FE 360 saturated too much and it doesen't transfer maximum electromagnetic field to the magnet, it's like if I used a weak magnetizer.
This happen with stronger magnet as ferrite, you can notice that. That' s reason I decided to keep carbonium athoms away putting whole metal parts in a oven at 1350° shooting inside it oxigene. This is only process to have an 90% pure iron, it means with a high magnetic permeability. Magnetizer performaces encreased a lot, saturating easily rods and bars, both in alnico and ceramic. I tried both bobbins in series and parallel.
I preferred parallel with opposite phase. Please let me know about your tests, thank you. I'm seeing plenty of AISI 1006 and 1008/10 steel available. Are these going to be significantly better than 1012L or 1018? There's a place near me called Stack Metallurgical who will heat treat anything for tempering or other purposes. They can probably do the oxygenation it but i don't know what their minimum would be. I'm not a metal expert sorry.
What experts says to me is to mill all parts with an iron with lower% of carbonium inside, that's all. Here in Italy it branded as FE360, I don't know if is the same in the rest of the world. Oven used is from a metallurgical company, and they told me what they do to reduce carbonium percentage but not in specific.
In italian is called 'Ricottura con insulfazione di ossigeno'; translated sounds like 'oxygen release recooking' In other hand you have to push iron near to the fusion point together oxygen then reduce temperature step by step. This operation takes more than 24 hours. You have to ask to some metallurgical company in order to do that, forget to do it in your shop. I can say more about it, sorry. Hi guys, I only just joined in the hopes someone can help. I built a magnetizer from a 4 inch plastic tube with about 60 windings of some data cable that I pulled out of a printer cable and I'm using the 5 volt DC from a USB port which I'm told uses from 100 to 500 Milliamps. It gets hot after about 40 seconds in use so I know it's working, but it doesn't really seem to magnetise very much if at all.
Is this too small to be any good? The construction of electromagnets in childrens books seem to run off very small power (like a battery) and not many windings at all so I thought this would be enough especially when left on for 30 seconds? Any help appreciated.